Fuel System pt2

Received the new fuel pump, fuel filter in the mail and I picked up fuel injection line to use as my regular fuel line.  Fuel line is a Barricade with a rated working capacity of 225psi noted on the hose although the guy at NAPA auto said it was rated to 180 psi working pressure.

Layed up a section of fuel line to see how it will run and if I had enough. Looks like it will work well.  Will have to work out mounting the fuel pump somewhere onto the frame to avoid vibrations and noise.

fuel line
Fuel line running through the driveshaft tunnel.
fuel hose
3/8″ Fuel injection hose – Barricade Greenshield 225 PSI. Picked up 20′ of this. Sold for $3.90 a foot at local NAPA auto.
fuel pump and filter
Wix fuel filter (made in Russia) and Airtex E8248 fuel pump. Pump comes with mounting brackets and hose clamps.

Cooling System

Started to put together the cooling system for the car. Purchased some miscellaneous hoses with roughly the right length and shape for the top of the radiator to the thermostat and the bottom of the radiator to the engine block. The honda  civic radiator has smaller hoses so will have to step down the larger miata size hoses so there are no leaks.

Will need to pick up a few more items for the system including a the thermo switch on the top of the thermostat.  According to this site: http://www.miata.net/garage/CoolingSystemProblems.html the thermo switch on the thermostat controls the radiator fan, and will turn it on at 207 deg F .  The Supercharger add on came with a 160 deg F thermostat, to help with engine pre-detonation.  If the cooling system functions nicely, then I will not need the fan, but I have a feeling that by downsizing the radiator (civic) that I may want the fan running at lower temperatures that 207 deg F to keep everything cool.

After reading this article (http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/)  on lower temp thermostats, it seems like it may not help the engine all that much, and what I really want to make sure of is that my radiator is up to the task and that my fan will kick in and help out the radiator enough.

Will probably have to get a overflow reservoir for the cooling system as well.

Radiator Hoses
Radiator hoses loosely placed.
Thermostats
Stock thermostat on the right (182-188 deg F sub-valve, 188-193 main valve), and aftermarket thermostat on the right for the supercharger (160 deg F)
thermostats top
Aftermarket thermostat on left, stock thermostat on right.
thermostat housing.
Thermostat housing at the front of the miata motor. Thermoswitch is missing from top of the housing. Had a housing bolt shear off during removal, had to weld a nut on the end of the stud, liberally apply penetrating oil and it came out fine. Had a couple extra bolts on a spare housing.
lower rad hose
General placement of lower rad hose. I retained the portion of miata rad hose and piping (with mounting bracket) coming off of the engine. This meant that my new hose didnt have to span as far, and all the pre-formed bends lined up better.
Lower rad hose side view
Shot of the section of rad hose coming off the engine that I retained. Will have to make a bracket on the frame so that I can fasten it down.
Miata Cooling System
Miata Cooling System Diagram

Fuel System

Working to get the fuel system together on the car.  Would have liked to use the stock miata fuel pump and sensor assembly, but my fuel tank is too shallow to allow it as it is an in tank pump system. Thought about mounting the stock fuel pump outside, but there are a few pin holes on the pump itself that likely leak fuel.  Would have to fabricate a canister to contain the pump in fuel so as avoid un-contained fuel leakage.  Decided to order a new external pump and mount it inline with the fuel system.  The stock pump is said to generally max out at 85 psi, but added flow may be desirable.  I ordered a high pressure pump with greater flow rate, although this may not have been necessary, although it was difficult to find any external pump meeting the stock specifications.  According to Airtex, the stock pump generally follows these specs:

E8229

Attributes

Type Turbine
Volts 12
Inlet Type Strainer
Outlet Size 5/16 in.
Outlet Type Hose Connect
GPH (Free Flow) 45
Max Pump PSI (Not System) 80-100

The pump will be installing has the following specs:

E8248

Attributes

Type Rollervane
Volts 12
Inlet Size 3/8 in.
Inlet Type Hose Bead
Outlet Size 3/8 in.
Outlet Type Hose Bead
GPH (Free Flow) 60-70
Max Pump PSI (Not System) 110-120

So the new pump will have significantly higher flow capacity and somewhat higher pressure.  I picked it up from amazon (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000DN7VME?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) and it comes with mounting hardware, which is a bonus.

Also will be installing a Wix 33003 inline fuel filter which has 3/8″ fittings to match the new pump. (http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=47940 available here http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CSEUPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)

Will have to pick up some fuel line capable of fuel pressures reached in the system.

At this point I am unsure how the higher pump pressure will affect the fuel delivery, as the supercharger kit came with a fuel pressure regulator, which I believe will dial in the correct pressures and fuel delivery for the boosted system.

In my review the fuel delivery system I came across a few good resources regarding pressure regulators and system considerations.

Fuel Pump info (Turbo Miata): http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/fuel-pump

Fuel Regulator info (scientific paper): http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=jas.2005.781.786&org=11

Some info is provided in the supercharger installation manual:

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There are a few different supercharger installation manuals kicking around online, which these photos are taken from.

 

Steering Rack Rod and Welding

Replaced the left steering rack rod.  The power steering rack I had had a slightly bent inner rod.  Had a new so removed the old, and installed the new.  Had to reuse the inner ball joint boot for containing grease and the larger accordion boot for keeping general debris away from the ball joint area.  Will need to install a boot clamp at the outer side later.  Installed and torqued to spec per the factory service manual (FSM).  Adjusted the toe in to within the FSM spec which was -3.0 mm (+/-) 3.0 mm.  Will need to adjust my front wheel camber at another time too.

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Finished some stich welding of the chassis pan to the chassis as well as installing two tabs at the rear of the chassis for attachment of the rear fenders.  Fillet welded on the inboard side after tacking on the outboard side.  Will need to fabricate and install two more tabs also for attachment of the rear fenders.

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Valve Cover Seal and Camshaft Cap Bolts

Got new camshaft cap bolts from the local mazda dealer parts department.  $4.50 per bolt, replaced the four holding down the front camshaft caps at the front seals.  Bolts were the same size, but the hex head had a integrated washer, rather than the separate wash of the original bolts.  I believe these bolts are used on many different mazda engine models.  Dealer got them in within a day of calling them up.  Other option was ordering from the States, but with shipping and exchange, bolts would be more like $15 per.  Installed them, torqued down to spec as per the factory service manual with no problems.  Once in, I could move to install the new valve cover gasket, with spots of silicone sealant at the corners of the camshaft caps as per the service manual.  Went in easy and torqued those valve cover bolts down to spec.

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Front Cam Seals and Caps

Took the timing belt and timing gears back off the car to get the front cam caps off and deal with the two sheared bolts. Got the cam caps off with much wiggling while applying an upward force with a vice grip. Took some work but got them both off. To my surprise one of the sheared bolts was loose and i was able to get the other out by backing it out with a punch and a hammer. No drilling and using an ez out necessary thankfully.  Replaced the front cam seals while the  caps were off.  Now just need to pick up new cam cap bolts and get them in.

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