Using clear vinyl sheet to create a template for the fabric soft top.
Working on a convertible soft top for the Locost. Picked up a triumph TR3 soft top frame mechanism. The tr3 frame is narrower so we had to cut and extend it to fit around our locost’s roll bar. Still in early stages, but progress photos are below.
Switched the front fenders out for a set of lightweight fibreglass ones. The originals were steel fenders from princess auto. The new are from the UK and made for locost builds. My cousin in Saskatoon, gave them to us, as he had changed the design of his front fenders after buying these. Thanks Trevor!
In an effort to reduce the wind that develops in the cockpit while driving, wind wings were made to help divert air away. Wind in the cockpit is significantly worse on the passenger side, where the drivers side has the exhaust pipes which may affect airflow and reduce wind on that side. The wings may have reduced cockpit wind some, but wind is still strong on the passenger side.
Found that the tank was becoming pressurized while the engine was running. Drilled hole in cap and fitted a breather pipe to connect to a flexible tube. Used special epoxy to seal breather tube as well as the threaded connection between the fuel tank and male fuel filler (where the cap mounts on to). This is an attempt to reduce pressurization of the tank and fuel being pushed out of the spots where there is air leakage.
Took the car for a drive yesterday and had one of the differential mounting point fail during a quick acceleration from stop. The mount on the front of the differential close to the driveshaft connection pulled apart and let the driveshaft move up and bash part of the chassis. No major damage but have to put in a new mount that can take both tension and compression forces. Installed mount followed the Saturn Sports Car guide recommendation, but the component was not designed to take any tension so pulled the rubber apart. Photos below.
Trying to solve the fuel starvation issue which occurs at heavy throttle around a right hand corner (highway on ramp). Removed the fuel tank and drained it of fuel. The plan is to create a new baffle in the tank by cutting a slot 4 inches deep and 4” from the he end of the tank all the way across the tank then sliding a flat aluminum sheet in and welding it shut. This will create a baffle next to the fuel pickup. As the fuel return line will deposit into this chamber, we dont think pass thrus in the baffle are necessary ( CORRECTION – passthroughs are not optional, as small chamber would empty before the rest of the tank, two 1/4 holes were drilled near the bottom of the baffle plate to allow refilling of the fuel pickup chamber.
Took out the existing steering rack mount and built a new one. Old one was from the Saturn Sports Cars/Book guide, which was meant for a escort rack and had the opposite mount to pinion angle. Meaning our Miata rack had a large angle kink between the pinion and steering shaft. The existing mount was quite flimsy, and we saw 1/4-1/2” of movement when turning the wheels at standstill. New rack is made with 1x2x1/16” thick rectangular tubing welded to the chassis and then 1/16” straps to further increase stiffness. New mounts are much stiffer and reduce the angle between the pinion and steering shaft.
Alignment sheets show the car only has about 1 degree of caster. The Saturn Sports Car guide for this build suggests that a small amount of caster adjustment is possible with the built in adjustable suspension parts. I’ve adjusted to the lower front a-arms to increase the amount of caster to improve the self-rightening of the steering wheel when turning. Minor adjustments have contributed to minor increases in the self-rightening effect.
Noticed the steer rack mount twisting slightly when turning the steering wheel while parked. Seams the Haynes steering rack mount design is not overly solid. Will need to add more bracing to the system to restrain it from moving around.