Working on a convertible soft top for the Locost. Picked up a triumph TR3 soft top frame mechanism. The tr3 frame is narrower so we had to cut and extend it to fit around our locost’s roll bar. Still in early stages, but progress photos are below.
Noticed the steer rack mount twisting slightly when turning the steering wheel while parked. Seams the Haynes steering rack mount design is not overly solid. Will need to add more bracing to the system to restrain it from moving around.
The coilovers I am using for my car are the following:
Varishock Quickset 1 – 10.05″-14.3″ travel. Shock data available here: http://www.cachassisworks.com/Attachments/DataSheets/VAS_112XX_DS_WEB.pdf
Damping has a single adjustment knob that varies bound/rebound at the same time. Damping data excerpt:
Summit Racing Coilover Shocks – 10.125″ -14″ travel, bound/rebound adjusted with two separate knobs
Started connecting the wiring harness up to the car. Thanks to the guy i bought the motor from for labeling most of the important connection points. We were able to connect most stuff up including motor, instrument panel, transmission, fuel pump, ignition, battery, and other bits. My steering signal and lighting assembly seems to be different from the harness and will require some re-wiring to make use of the signal and lighting switches. Will have to locate and attach the thread the harness through the chassis in its final resting place later.
Next to get the fuel supply, cooling supply and exhaust sorted so that we can get the engine running.
Cut circular holes in the firewall to mount the factory wiring harness seals and allow the harness to pass through. Detached and re-attached the necessary engine wiring to thread it through the hole. Factory seal/gasket fits well into holes.
April 10, 2016 – Update – Started thinning out the wiring harness to try to cut down on the bulk. Lighting and engine running so excess wires can be weeded out. Removed radio, hvac, headlight retractor and door wiring to start.
When the engine was first started, I could hear a rattle coming from the supercharger. The supercharger on this engine is a Eaton M45, that is common to many vehicles throughout the years (mini cooper s, pontiac gran prix/am?, etc.) From my reading online, there are two general causes of the rattle. Those are failing bearings (which there are many in the supercharger) and worn coupler. For general diagnosis, with the supercharger belt off, turn the snout pully, if there is play when rotating back and forth, the coupler is likely worn, if it is rough and grindy, bearings are likely the problem. On mine there was play when rotating, but it rotated smoothly, implicating a worn coupler. Lucky for me, this is the easiest of fixes. Drain supercharger fluid, remove snout, replace coupler, reinstall snout, fill with new fluid, done. I purchased kit similar to those found on this site (http://www.superchargersonline.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=57). From what I’ve seen online, replacing bearings requires more care and expensive tools (presses, etc).
Prior to performing the first drive, the brakes and clutch were made operational. For the brakes, the lines were installed, filled with fluid and bled. Started bleeding at the furthest brake caliper and made our way up to the closest to the master cylinder, then repeated until there were no more air bubbles. Luckily none of the bleeder screws/valves on the calipers were seized shut. A Wilwood brake proportioning valve was installed in the line that I purchased from Flyin’ Miata (https://www.flyinmiata.com/complete-adjustable-brake-proportioning-kit.html)
For the clutch, the existing slave cylinder was seized and had to be replaced with new one I picked up from a local auto parts store. Once replaced, the master was filled with fluid and line was bled.
Plugged it all in, fuel, vacuum hoses etc.