Started connecting the wiring harness up to the car. Thanks to the guy i bought the motor from for labeling most of the important connection points. We were able to connect most stuff up including motor, instrument panel, transmission, fuel pump, ignition, battery, and other bits. My steering signal and lighting assembly seems to be different from the harness and will require some re-wiring to make use of the signal and lighting switches. Will have to locate and attach the thread the harness through the chassis in its final resting place later.
Next to get the fuel supply, cooling supply and exhaust sorted so that we can get the engine running.
Cut circular holes in the firewall to mount the factory wiring harness seals and allow the harness to pass through. Detached and re-attached the necessary engine wiring to thread it through the hole. Factory seal/gasket fits well into holes.
April 10, 2016 – Update – Started thinning out the wiring harness to try to cut down on the bulk. Lighting and engine running so excess wires can be weeded out. Removed radio, hvac, headlight retractor and door wiring to start.
Working to get the fuel system together on the car. Would have liked to use the stock miata fuel pump and sensor assembly, but my fuel tank is too shallow to allow it as it is an in tank pump system. Thought about mounting the stock fuel pump outside, but there are a few pin holes on the pump itself that likely leak fuel. Would have to fabricate a canister to contain the pump in fuel so as avoid un-contained fuel leakage. Decided to order a new external pump and mount it inline with the fuel system. The stock pump is said to generally max out at 85 psi, but added flow may be desirable. I ordered a high pressure pump with greater flow rate, although this may not have been necessary, although it was difficult to find any external pump meeting the stock specifications. According to Airtex, the stock pump generally follows these specs:
|GPH (Free Flow)
|Max Pump PSI (Not System)
The pump will be installing has the following specs:
Also will be installing a Wix 33003 inline fuel filter which has 3/8″ fittings to match the new pump. (http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=47940 available here http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CSEUPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Will have to pick up some fuel line capable of fuel pressures reached in the system.
At this point I am unsure how the higher pump pressure will affect the fuel delivery, as the supercharger kit came with a fuel pressure regulator, which I believe will dial in the correct pressures and fuel delivery for the boosted system.
In my review the fuel delivery system I came across a few good resources regarding pressure regulators and system considerations.
Fuel Pump info (Turbo Miata): http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/fuel-pump
Fuel Regulator info (scientific paper): http://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=jas.2005.781.786&org=11
Some info is provided in the supercharger installation manual:
There are a few different supercharger installation manuals kicking around online, which these photos are taken from.
Got new camshaft cap bolts from the local mazda dealer parts department. $4.50 per bolt, replaced the four holding down the front camshaft caps at the front seals. Bolts were the same size, but the hex head had a integrated washer, rather than the separate wash of the original bolts. I believe these bolts are used on many different mazda engine models. Dealer got them in within a day of calling them up. Other option was ordering from the States, but with shipping and exchange, bolts would be more like $15 per. Installed them, torqued down to spec as per the factory service manual with no problems. Once in, I could move to install the new valve cover gasket, with spots of silicone sealant at the corners of the camshaft caps as per the service manual. Went in easy and torqued those valve cover bolts down to spec.
Took the timing belt and timing gears back off the car to get the front cam caps off and deal with the two sheared bolts. Got the cam caps off with much wiggling while applying an upward force with a vice grip. Took some work but got them both off. To my surprise one of the sheared bolts was loose and i was able to get the other out by backing it out with a punch and a hammer. No drilling and using an ez out necessary thankfully. Replaced the front cam seals while the caps were off. Now just need to pick up new cam cap bolts and get them in.
Replaced the timing belt, water pump, timing belt idler and tensioner pullies. Followed factory service manual and youtube how to’s for general instructions. Had issues removing the front cam cap for replacing the cam seals and ended up shearing two bills off in the head 🙁 will fix next time.